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p-coumaric acid not only inhibits human tyrosinase activity in vitro but also melanogenesis in cells exposed to UVB.

Phytotherapy research : PTR (2010-01-16)
Sang Mi An, Jae-Sook Koh, Yong Chool Boo
RÉSUMÉ

Tyrosinase (TYR) catalyzes rate-limiting steps of melanogenesis and thus its inhibitors are potentially useful as hypopigmenting agents. Recently, p-coumaric acid (p-CA) has been suggested to interfere with the pro-melanogenic actions of tyrosine due to its structural similarity with tyrosine (An SM et al., Br J Dermatol 2008. 159: 292). In this study, we compared the inhibitory effects of p-CA and two other well known TYR inhibitors used in cosmetics--arbutin and kojic acid--on the catalytic activities of mushroom, murine and human TYRs in vitro, using tyrosine and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) as substrates. The results showed that p-CA is a weaker inhibitor of mushroom TYR but much stronger inhibitor of human or murine TYR in comparison with kojic acid and arbutin. In addition, p-CA inhibited human TYR at much lower concentrations than those required for the inhibition of murine or mushroom TYRs. Enzyme kinetics analysis indicated that p-CA is a mixed type (for tyrosine) or competitive inhibitor (for DOPA) of human TYR. Potent antimelanogenic effects of p-CA were observed in human epidermal melanocytes exposed to UVB. The present study demonstrated that p-CA is a potent and selective inhibitor of human TYR and is potentially useful as a hypopigmenting agent.

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Arbutin, ≥98% (HPLC)